Skip to main content
Log in

An Attempt to Determine the CSR Potential of the International Clothing Business

  • Published:
Journal of Business Ethics Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

Most empirical studies of corporate social responsibility (CSR) focus on variables at the company level. In this article, I focus on the sector level: I consider features of the international clothing business and of the global economy in general, that may influence the CSR potential. There is high ‘CSR potential’ when sector-specific features indicate that the risk of violating CSR standards is high. Thus, ‘high CSR potential’ indicates that there is a potential for positive influence through CSR-related actions. Based on several empirical studies of the clothing business, I identify six features that indicate a high CSR potential. These features are shown to be consistent with more general features of the global economy. This holds whether we emphasize asymmetric relations and unequal distribution, the product cycle, or transnationalization. Thus, the CSR potential of the international clothing business seems not only to be a product of sector-specific properties, but also of more systemic and general features of the global economy. This suggests that the CSR performance of individual companies may enhance their social and environmental impact, but will probably have little effect on the features that determine the CSR potential. In order to affect these features I argue, we rely on other institutions to act – mainly governments. Finally, I conclude that this study shows that it is useful to identify the CSR potential of a business sector. We get a picture of which part of the international CSR standards companies run the greatest risk of violating and of which structural issues intergovernmental actions should address to reduce the potential for violating CSR standards.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  • Abernathy, Fredric H. and Dunlop, John T. and Hammond, Jannice T. and Weil, David: 1999, A Stitch in Time. (Oxford University Press, New York.).

    Google Scholar 

  • Abernathy, F. H., A. Volpe and D. Weil: 2004, The Apparel and Textile Industries After 2005: Prospects and Choices (Harvard Center for Textile and Apparel Research, Harvard University, Cambridge).

  • AccountAbility: 2007: ‘The State of Responsible Competitiveness 2007’. Report published in July 2007 by AccountAbility in association with Fundacao Dom Cabral.

  • Almor, T., H. Niron and H. Seev: 2006, ‘The Product Cycle Revisited: Knowledge Intensity and Firm Internationalization’, Management International Review 46(5), 507–528.

    Google Scholar 

  • Baden, S.: 2002, Trade Policy, ‘Retail Markets and Value Chain Restructuring in the EU Clothing Sector’. PRUS Working Paper No. 9, University of Sussex.

  • Cantwell, John: 1995, ‘The globalisation of technology: what remains of the product cycle model?’, Cambridge Journal of Economics 19, 155-174.

    Google Scholar 

  • Carroll, Archie B.: 1999, ‘CSR - Evolution of a Definitional Construct’, Business and Society 38(3), 268-295.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Castells, M.: 2000, The Rise of the Network Society 2nd Edition (Blackwell Publishing, Oxford).

  • Crouch, C.: 2004, Post-Democracy (Polity Press, Cambridge).

  • Crouch, Colin: 2006, ‘Modelling the Firm in its Market and Organizational Environment: Methodologies for Studying Corporate Social Responsibility’, Organization Studies, 27(10), 1533-1551.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Datamonitor: 2008, ‘Apparel Retail in Europe. Industry Profile’. Premium Report, published in September 2008.

  • Delpeuch, C.: 2007, ‘EU and US Safeguards Against Chinese Textile Exports: What Consequences for West African Cotton-Producing Countries?’ Policy Brief, Groupe d’Economie Mondiale at Sciences-Po (GEM).

  • European Union: 2001, ‘Promoting European Framework for Corporate Social Responsibility’. Green Paper, COM(2001) 366 final.

  • Fox, T., H. Ward and B. Howard: 2002, ‘Public Sector Roles in Strengthening Corporate Social Responsibility’. Baseline study prepared for the World Bank.

  • Gaarder, P. A.: 2004, ‘Mektige merkeklær: Leverandørkjedens jerngrep’. Report published by Norwatch, Oslo, Norway (Norwegian).

  • Galtung, Johan: 1971, ‘A Structural Theory of Imperialism’, Journal of Peace Research, 8(2), 81-117.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Garriga, Elisabet and Melé, Domènec: 2004, ‘CSR Theories: Mapping the Territory’, Journal of Business Ethics 53, 51-71.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Gereffi, Gary: 1999, ‘International Trade and Industrial Upgrading in the Apparel Commodity Chain’, Journal of International Economics, 48, 37-70.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Gereffi, Gary and Memedovic, Olga: 2003, ‘The Global Apparel Value Chain: What Prospects for Upgrading by Developing Countries’. United Nations Industrial Development Organization, Sectoral Studies Series.

    Google Scholar 

  • Grant, E. B. and Gregory, M. J.: 1997, ‘Tacit Knowledge, the Life Cycle and International Manufacturing Transfer’, Technology Analysis & Strategic Management, 9(2), 149-160.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • HayGroup.com, 2006, ‘Second World Comes First in New International Pay Stakes’. Press release, 18 July 2006.

  • Hirst, Paul and Thompson, Grahame: 1992, ‘The Problem of ‘Globalization’: International Economic Relations, National Economic Management and the Formation of Trading Blocs’, Economy and Society, 21(4), 357-396.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hirst, Paul and Thompson, Grahame: 2002, ‘The Future of Globalization’. Cooperation and Conflict: Journal of the Nordic International Studies Association, 37(3), 247-265.

    Google Scholar 

  • International Confederation of Free Trade Unions (ICFTU): 2005, ‘Stitched Up! How Those Imposing Unfair Competition in the Textiles and Clothing Industries are the Only Winners in this Race to the Bottom’, Report (29 pages).

  • International Labour Organization, ILO: 2005, ‘Promoting fair globalization in textiles and clothing in a post-MFA environment’, TMTC-PMFA, Geneva 2005.

    Google Scholar 

  • Jørgensen, A. L.: 2004, ‘The Rule of CSR and the Role of Law’. Think piece, The Copenhagen Centre.

  • Kakabadse, Nada K and Rozuel, Cécile and Linda Lee-Davies: 2005, ‘CSR and stakeholder approach: a conceptual review’, International Journal of Business Governance and Ethics, 1(4), 277-302.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Keohane, Robert Owen and Nye, Joseph S.: 2001, Power and Interdependence, 3rd edition (Longman).

    Google Scholar 

  • Lindsey, Brink: 2001, Against the Dead Hand: The Uncertain Struggle for Global Capitalism, (John Wiley and Sons).

    Google Scholar 

  • Locket, Andy and Moon, Jeremy and Vissner, Wayne: 2006, ‘Corporate Social Responsibility in Management Research: Focus, Nature, Salience and Sources of Influence.’ Journal of Management Studies 43 (1), 115-136.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • McIntosh, Malcolm and Thomas, Ruth and Leipziger, Deborah and Coleman, Gill: 2003, Living Corporate Citizenship, (FT Prentice Hall).

    Google Scholar 

  • Nordås, H. K.: 2004, ‘The Global Textile and Clothing Industry Post the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing’. Discussion Paper No. 5 commissioned by the World Trade Organization.

  • OECD: 2004, A New World Map of Textiles and Clothing, OECD publication.

    Google Scholar 

  • OECD: 2006, OECD Factbook (OECD publication, Paris, France), ISBN: 9789264035614.

  • Rondinelli, Dennis A.: 2003, ‘Transnational corporations: international citizen or new sovereigns?.’ Business Strategy Review, 14(4), 13-21.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ruggie, John Gerard: 2004, ‘Reconstituting the Global Public Domain’, European Journal of International Relations 10(4), 499-531.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ruggie, J. G.: 2007, ‘Report of the Special Representative of the Secretary-General on the Issue of Human Rights and Transnational Corporations and Other Business Enterprises’. Report submitted to the Human Rights Council of the United Nations. Reference Number A/HRC/4/35, 19 February 2007.

  • Scherer, Andreas Georg and Palazzo, Guido and Baumann, Dorothée: 2006, ‘Global Rules and Private Actors – Toward a New Role of the TNC in Global Governance’, Business Ethics Quarterly, 16, 505-532.

    Google Scholar 

  • Shi, Li and Sato, Hiroshi: 2006, Unemployment, inequality, and Poverty in Urban China, (Routledge, New York).

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • UNCTAD: 2005, ‘TNC and the Removal of Textile and Clothing Quotas’. UNCTAD Current Studies on FDI and Development.

  • UNDP and Royal Danish Ministry of Foreign Affaires: 2005, ‘Implementing the UN Global Compact’. Booklet, June 2005.

  • UNDP: 2006, ‘Human Development Report 2006’.

  • Vernon, Raymond: 1966, ‘International Investment and International Trade in the Product Cycle’, The Quarterly Journal of Economics, 80(2), 190-207.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Vernon, Raymond: 1979, ‘The Product Cycle Hypothesis in a New International Environment’, Oxford Bulletin of Economics & Statistics, 41(4), 255-267.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Waddock, Sandra: 2004, ‘Parallel Universes: Companies, Academics and the Progress of Corporate Citizenship’, Business and Society Review, 109(1), 5-42.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • World Bank: 2007, ‘Vertical and Regional Integration to Promote African Textiles and Clothing Exports. A Close Knit Family?’. Report No. 39994-AFR.

  • World Health Organization (WHO): 2005, ‘Ecosystems and Human Well-Being: Health Synthesis’.

  • Yimprasert, J. and P. Hveem: 2005, ‘The Race to the Bottom. Exploitation of Workers in the Global Garment Industry’. Norwegian Church Aid, Occasional Paper Series, 01/2005.

  • Zadek, Simon: 2001, The Civil Corporation, Earthscan Publication, London.

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Thomas Laudal.

Additional information

This article is part of a larger research project funded by The Research Council of Norway project no. 171573.

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Cite this article

Laudal, T. An Attempt to Determine the CSR Potential of the International Clothing Business. J Bus Ethics 96, 63–77 (2010). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-010-0449-6

Download citation

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-010-0449-6

Key words

Navigation