Skip to main content

Advertisement

Log in

Food labor, economic inequality, and the imperfect politics of process in the alternative food movement

  • Published:
Agriculture and Human Values Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

There is a growing commitment by different parts of the alternative food movement (AFM) to improve labor conditions for conventional food chain workers, and to develop economically fair alternatives, albeit under a range of conditions that structure mobilization. This has direct implications for the process of intra-movement building and therefore the degree to which the movement ameliorates economic inequality at the point of food labor. This article asks what accounts for the variation in AFM labor commitments across different contexts. It then appraises a range of activist perspectives, practices, and organizational approaches. The answer emerges through a comparative analysis of three California social movement organizations enmeshed in the particularities of local contentious food politics. The cases include a labor union representing grocery store and meatpacking/food processing workers, a food justice organization working to create green jobs and independent funding models, and an organic urban farming and educational organization. Commitment to fair labor standards varies due to differences in organizational capacity, the degree of dedication to ending economic inequality in local activist culture, and the openness of local political and economic institutions to working class struggles. The article concludes with a discussion of how these findings inform our understanding of the process of cooperation and division in the AFM, particularly regarding the complexities and contradictions of using food labor to combat economic inequality. Movement building in the midst of varying institutional, organizational, and cultural contexts reinforces the value of a reflexive approach to this imperfect politics of process.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Similar content being viewed by others

Notes

  1. I use “local activist culture” interchangeably with “local movement culture” to refer to widespread discourses, mobilization approaches, norms, and rituals in liberal, progressive, and radical circles that spill over and inform activism in a particular place. Such a notion follows from the work of social movement scholars (c.f. Jasper 2010; Taylor and Whittier 1995).

  2. The interviewee demographics varied by case. That said the largest groups were college educated white males (24 %), white females (19 %), Asian females (10 %), Latinos (9 %), and Latinas (9 %). Overall the respondents were primarily white (47 %) with a college degree (79 %).

  3. I created this figure by assuming that across all board members roughly 25 h of labor is dedicated toward some aspect of the farm, and conservatively that nine volunteers work for 5 h each (45 in total).

  4. The minority unionism of groups like OUR Wal-Mart and the Fight for 15 (both backed by labor unions) and alternative labor organizations like Restaurant Opportunity Center are leading the current wave of contention for fair food labor.

Abbreviations

AFL-CIO:

American Federation of Labor and Congress of Industrial Organizations

AFM:

Alternative food movement

ALOFT:

A local organic farmland trust

CSA:

Community supported agriculture

LA:

Los Angeles

PJ:

Planting Justice

SD Roots:

San Diego Roots Sustainable Food Project

TYY:

Transform Your Yard program

UFCW:

United Food and Commercial Workers

US:

United States

USDA:

United States Department of Agriculture

WWF:

Wild Willow Farm

References

  • Alkon, A.H. 2012. Black, white, and green: Farmers markets, race, and the green economy. Athens, GA: University of Georgia Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Alkon, A.H., and J. Agyeman. 2011. Conclusion: Cultivating the fertile field of food justice. In Cultivating food justice, race, class, and sustainability, ed. A.H. Alkon, and J. Agyeman, 331–347. Cambridge MA: MIT Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Alkon, A.H., and C.G. McCullen. 2011. Whiteness and farmers markets: Performances, perpetuations… contestations? Antipode 43(4): 937–959.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Allen, P. 2010. Realizing justice in local food systems. Cambridge Journal of Regions, Economy and Society 3(2): 295–308.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Allen, P. 2008. Mining for justice in the food system: Perceptions, practices, and possibilities. Agriculture and Human Values 25(2): 157–161.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Allen, P., M. FitzSimmons, M. Goodman, and K. Warner. 2003. Shifting plates in the agrifood landscape: The tectonics of alternative agrifood initiatives in California. Journal of Rural Studies 19(1): 61–75.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bair, J., and S. Bernstein. 2006. Labor and the Wal-Mart effect. In Wal-Mart world: The world’s biggest corporation in the global economy, ed. S. Brunn, 99–113. New York, NY: Routledge.

    Google Scholar 

  • Besky, S. 2014. The Darjeeling distinction: Labor and justice on Fair-Trade tea plantations in India. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Bittman, M. 2014. Rethinking the word “foodie.” New York Times. http://www.nytimes.com/2014/06/25/opinion/mark-bittman-rethinking-the-word-foodie.html. Accessed 21 August 2014.

  • Blay-Palmer, A., K. Landman, I. Knezevic, and R. Hayhurst. 2013. Constructing resilient, transformative communities through sustainable “food hubs”. Local Environment 18(5): 521–528.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bonacich, E., and J.B. Wilson. 2006. Global production and distribution: Wal-Mart’s global logistics empire (with special reference to the China/Southern California connection). In Wal-Mart world: The world’s biggest corporation in the global economy, ed. S. Brunn, 227–242. New York, NY: Routledge.

    Google Scholar 

  • Bowe, J. 2007. Nobodies: American slave labor and the dark side of the American economy. New York, NY: Random House.

    Google Scholar 

  • Brown, S., and C. Getz. 2011. Farmworker insecurity and the production of hunger in California. In Cultivating food justice, race, class, and sustainability, ed. A.H. Alkon, and J. Agyeman, 121–146. Cambridge: MIT Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Brown, S., and C. Getz. 2008. Privatizing farm worker justice: Regulating labor through voluntary certification and labeling. Geoforum 39(3): 1184–1196.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Brueggemann, J., and C. Brown. 2003. The decline of industrial unionism in the meatpacking industry: Event-structure analyses of labor unrest, 1946–1987. Work and Occupations 30(3): 327–360.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Carolan, M.S. 2013. The wild side of agro-food studies: On co-experimentation, politics, change, and hope. Sociologia Ruralis 53(4): 413–431.

    Google Scholar 

  • Constance, D.H. 2008. The emancipatory question: The next step in the sociology of agrifood systems? Agriculture and Human Values 25(2): 151–155.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Daniel, C. 1981. Bitter harvest: A history of California farmworkers, 1870–1941. Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Davis, M., K. Mayhew, and J. Miller. 2003. Under the perfect sun: The San Diego tourists never see. New York, NY: The New Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • DeLind, L.B. 2002. Place, work, and civic agriculture: Common fields for cultivation. Agriculture and Human Values 19: 217–224.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • DuPuis, E.M., J.L. Harrison, and D. Goodman. 2011. Just food? In Cultivating food justice, race, class, and sustainability, ed. A.H. Alkon, and J. Agyeman, 283–307. Cambridge MA: MIT Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Fink, D. 1998. Cutting into the meatpacking line: Workers and change in the rural Midwest. Chapel Hill, NC: University of North Carolina Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Food Chain Workers Alliance. 2012. The hands that feed us: Challenges and opportunities for workers along the food chain. CA: Los Angeles.

  • Galt, R.E. 2013. The moral economy is a double-edged sword: Explaining farmers’ earnings and self-exploitation in community-supported agriculture. Economic Geography 89(4): 341–365.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ganz, M. 2009. Why David sometimes wins: Leadership, organization, and strategy in the California farm worker movement. New York, NY: Oxford University Press.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Gereffi, G., and M. Christian. 2009. The impacts of Wal-Mart: The rise and consequences of the world’s dominant retailer. Annual Review of Sociology 35: 573–591.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Giagnoni, S. 2011. Fields of resistance: The struggle of Florida’s farmworkers for justice. Chicago, IL: Haymarket Books.

    Google Scholar 

  • Goodman, D., M. Goodman, and M. DuPuis. 2012. Alternative food networks: Knowledge, place and politics. New York, NY: Routledge.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gottlieb, R., and A. Joshi. 2010. Food justice. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gray, M. 2014. Labor and the locavore: The making of a comprehensive food ethic. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Guthman, J. 2008. Neoliberalism and the making of food politics in California. Geoforum 39(3): 1171–1183.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Guthman, J. 2004. Agrarian dreams: The paradox of organic farming in California. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Harrison, J.L. 2011. Pesticide drift and the pursuit of environmental justice. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Hassanein, N. 2003. Practicing food democracy: A pragmatic politics of transformation. Journal of Rural Studies 19(1): 77–86.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hinrichs, C.C. 2010. Sustainable food systems: Challenges of social justice and a call to sociologists. Sociological Viewpoints 26(2): 7–18.

    Google Scholar 

  • Holt-Gimémez, E. (ed.). 2011. Food movements unite! Oakland. CA: Food First Books.

    Google Scholar 

  • Holt-Giménez, E., and A. Shattuck. 2011. Food crises, food regimes, and food movements: Rumblings of reform or tides of transformation? The Journal of Peasant Studies 38(1): 109–144.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Horowitz, R. 1997. “Where men will not work”: Gender, power, space, and the sexual division of labor in America’s meatpacking industry, 1890–1990. Technology and Culture 38(1): 187–213.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Jarosz, L. 2008. The city in the country: Growing alternative food networks in Metropolitan areas. Journal of Rural Studies 24(3): 231–244.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Jasper, J.M. 2010. Cultural approaches in the sociology of social movements. In Handbook of social movements across disciplines, ed. B. Klandermans, and C. Roggeband, 59–109. New York, NY: Springer.

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  • Jayaraman, S. 2013. Behind the kitchen door. Ithica, NY: Cornell University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kandel, W., and E.A. Parrado. 2005. Restructuring of the US meat processing industry and new Hispanic migrant destinations. Population and Development Review 31(3): 447–471.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Key, M. 2014a. Oakland slow to okay more public urban gardens. East Bay Express. http://www.eastbayexpress.com/oakland/oakland-slow-to-okay-more-public-urban-gardens/Content?oid=3939495. Accessed 6 September 2014.

  • Key, M. 2014b. Confusion reigns over Oakland urban gardens. East Bay Express. http://www.eastbayexpress.com/oakland/confusion-reigns-over-oakland-urban-gardens/Content?oid=3981068. Accessed 6 September 2014.

  • Kloppenburg, J., J. Hendrickson, and G.W. Stevenson. 1996. Coming into the foodshed. Agriculture and Human Values 13(3): 33–42.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kristal, T. 2010. Good times, bad times: Postwar labor’s share of national income in capitalist democracies. American Sociological Review 75(5): 729–763.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Lichtenstein, N. 2006. Wal-Mart: The face of the twenty-first century capitalism. New York, NY: New Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Liu, Y.Y., and D. Apollon. 2011. The color of food. New York: Applied Research Center.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lyson, T.A. 2004. Civic agriculture: Reconnecting farm, food, and community. Medford, MA: Tufts University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Maldonado, M.M. 2009. “It is their nature to do menial labor”: The racialization of “Latino/a workers” by agricultural employers. Ethnic and Racial Studies 32(6): 1017–1036.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Maye, D., L. Holloway, and M. Kneafsey (eds.). 2007. Alternative food geographies: Representation and practice. Oxford, UK: Elsevier.

    Google Scholar 

  • McClintock, N. 2013. Radical, reformist, and garden-variety neoliberal: Coming to terms with urban agriculture’s contradictions. Local Environment 19(2): 147–171.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • McClintock, N., and M. Simpson. 2014. A survey of urban agriculture organizations and businesses in the US & Canada: Preliminary results. Portland, OR: Portland State University, Toulan School of Urban Studies and Planning.

    Google Scholar 

  • Milkman, R. 2006. LA story: Immigrant workers and the future of the US labor movement. New York, NY: Russell Sage Foundation.

    Google Scholar 

  • Miller, G. 2004. Everyday low wages: The hidden price we all pay for Wal-Mart. A Report by the Democratic Staff of the Committee on Education and the Workforce, Representative George Miller (D-CA).

  • Minkoff-Zern, L.A., N. Peluso, J. Sowerwine, and C. Getz. 2011. Race and regulation: Asian immigrants in California agriculture. In Cultivating food justice, race, class, and sustainability, ed. A.H. Alkon, and J. Agyeman, 65–85. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Mitchell, D. 1996. The lie of the land: Migrant workers and the California landscape. Minneapolis, MN: University of Minnesota Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • National Employment Law Project. 2012. The low-wage recovery and growing inequality. New York, NY. http://nelp.3cdn.net/8ee4a46a37c86939c0_qjm6bkhe0.pdf. Accessed 4 October 2013.

  • National Guestworker Alliance. 2012. Summary of preliminary audit of US Wal-Mart suppliers that employ guestworkers. New Orleans, LA.

  • Neumark, D., J. Zhang, and S. Ciccarella. 2008. The effects of Wal-Mart on local labor markets. Journal of Urban Economics 63(2): 405–430.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ngai, M. 2004. Impossible subjects: Illegal aliens and the making of modern America. Princeton, New Jersey: Princeton University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Pachirat, T. 2011. Every twelve seconds: Industrialized slaughter and the politics of sight. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Rainey, J., and J. Merl. 2014. Garcetti calls for $13.25 minimum wage by 2017. Los Angeles Times. http://www.latimes.com/local/cityhall/la-me-garcetti-wage-20140902-story.html#page=1. Accessed 3 September 2014.

  • Restaurant Opportunity Center United. 2011. Behind the kitchen door: A multi-site study of the restaurant industry. New York, NY.

  • Restaurant Opportunity Center United. 2013. Realizing the dream: How the minimum wage impacts racial equity in the restaurant industry and in America. New York, NY: The Center for Social Inclusion.

  • Rosenfeld, J. 2010. Economic determinants of voting in an era of union decline. Social Science Quarterly 91(2): 379–395.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Sachs, C., P. Allen, A.R. Terman, J. Hayden, and C. Hatcher. 2014. Front and back of the house: Socio-spatial inequalities in food work. Agriculture and Human Values 31(1): 3–17.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Salaysay, C. 2014. Oakland slow on urban-ag incentive front. Oakland Magazine. http://www.oaklandmagazine.com/Oakland-Magazine/May-2014/Oakland-Slow-on-Urban-Ag-Incentive-Front/. Accessed 6 September 2014.

  • Sbicca, J. 2014. The need to feed: Urban metabolic struggles of actually existing radical projects. Critical Sociology 40(6): 817–834.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Schlosser, E. 2004. Fast food nation: The dark side of the all-American meal. New York, NY: HarperCollins.

    Google Scholar 

  • Schnaiberg, A. 1980. The environment: From surplus to scarcity. New York, NY: Oxford University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Shreck, A., C. Getz, and G. Feenstra. 2006. Social sustainability, farm labor, and organic agriculture: Findings from an exploratory analysis. Agriculture and Human Values 23(4): 439–449.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Sinclair, U. 1906. The jungle. New York, NY: Doubleday, Page and Company.

  • Trageser, C. 2014. A battle for voters’ signatures to overturn San Diego’s minimum wage hike. http://www.kpbs.org/news/2014/aug/27/its-battle-voters-signatures-overturn-minimum-wage/. Accessed 5 September 2014.

  • Taylor, V., and N. Whittier. 1995. Analytical approaches to social movement culture: The culture of the women’s movement. In Social movements and culture, ed. H. Johnston, and B. Klandermans, 163–187. Minneapolis, MN: University of Minnesota Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wallace, M., K.T. Leicht, and L.E. Raffalovich. 1999. Unions, strikes, and labor’s share of income: A quarterly analysis of the United States, 1949–1992. Social Science Research 28(3): 265–288.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Wells, M. 1996. Strawberry fields: Politics, class, and work in California agriculture. Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Western, B., and J. Rosenfeld. 2011. Unions, norms, and the rise in US wage inequality. American Sociological Review 76(4): 513–537.

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Acknowledgments

Thanks first and foremost to the many people who spoke openly about the ups and downs of creating a fairer agrifood system. An earlier and less developed version of this paper was presented at the 2013 Yale Food Symposium, at which I received a number of helpful comments. I also want to express gratitude to the anonymous reviewers and the editor, Harvey James, for providing constructive feedback.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Joshua Sbicca.

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this article

Sbicca, J. Food labor, economic inequality, and the imperfect politics of process in the alternative food movement. Agric Hum Values 32, 675–687 (2015). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10460-015-9582-2

Download citation

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10460-015-9582-2

Keywords

Navigation