The historical dimension of alimentary practices is sufficiently emphasized today in publications dealing with the past development of European societies. And yet there is still surprise at the discovery that at the end of the Middle Ages, olive oil did not have the importance in Provence one is tempted to attribute to it since time immemorial in this region. Or the connoisseur of cassoulet in the southwestern part of France might be surprised to learn that his ancestors were unable to (...) enjoy this dish until after the discovery of America and the introduction of the Phaseolus variety of beans in Europe. (shrink)